{[LEGIT]} One More Brick unlimited Stars hack download Android iOS

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This is the reason why I bought its &amp,quot,brick&amp,quot, PSU at a a fleas market, for about…
Modified Brick » Power Supply. About: I’m an Italian freelance structural engineer, graphic designer and photographer, now I’m teaching physics in Waldorf high-schools. I always investigate electronics, robotics and science in general, I’m a passi… More About andrea biffi » I always appreciated Microsoft products quality, my Xbox360 worked pretty well for 5 years, despite the red leds of death fame, and it continues to do its work.

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This is the reason why I bought its « brick » PSU at a a fleas market, for about 12$. I decided to build from it a 12V power supply unit for my laboratory. I’ve to thank some instructables members (dog digger and Skater_j10) for the help their ibles gave me to understand the connections. Please if you’re not familiar with electronics, inform about danger of electricity on some trustworthy sources (a simple but comprehensive one could be http://www.dummies.com) Step 1: The Original Brick. Let’s see what I’ve learned and practiced. My brick is the third generation model, because is less powerful than the first two, but it’s even so very powerful. Indeed you can read from the back side data that it generates 12V DC at 150W, It also gives a secondary 5V 1A line, which is a very pleasant peculiarity. The 5V line is always on, since it’s the standby power source of the console, but the main line is turned on with a small current flowing between two contacts of the plug. Pay attention that the psu retains high current in his big capacitors for about 10 seconds after disconnection, and probably some current remains also for more time, so please be careful to not touch circuits with fingers! Step 2: Disassembling. If you open the psu container (unscrew the four screws which are hidden beneath the rubber feet) you’ll find some interesting details. Pay a particular attention to remove the cover and to slide out the PCB, because you have to assemble it again. Step 3: Read the Labels. Each wire is well labeled, so you can easily fond the Power Enable wire (blue one), which has to be connected with a +3V line to turn the PSU on. As Skater_j10 tested you can also use a +5V voltage, so it’s easy to insert a switch between BLUE and RED lines. Step 4: Peek Under the Metal Skirt ,-) You can solder the switch wires on the back side of the PCB, but I preferred to solder them on the upper side, although that space is not handy to reach. I made this decision because I didn’t want to interfere with other tiny components, since as you can see the space is highly crowded! Step 5: Choose a Switch. I have now to choose the best switch to use and where to put them. I like both but then I had to choose the lever one because it occupies a smaller place. You can also buy smaller switch, it will probably help you to make everything fit inside the box. Step 6: Drill the Hole. the switch has to be on the front side of the « brick » you better have to put it vertical to facilitate the activation and the power suspention you don’t want to remove any inside component, least of all the fan or one of the heat-sinks you don’t want to ruin the edge of the two halves of the container, so it will be again well-sealed you have to be able to close the « brick » with switch in place. Step 7: Test. Insert the switch in place, then try to assemble temporarily the pcb so to see if it fits well. As you see the switch push against the transistor, but it’s not a terrible fact. If you’re happy you can now solder the wires to switch and pcb. Step 8: Solder. Remove a bit of the insulation plastic of the yellow and blue wires, to to reveal copper. Apply some soldering paste, and solder the new wires extremities. Then solder these wires to your switch. Since the bottom pin of the switch could touch the blue wire junction pay attention it’s the Power Enable line. The center pin will so be connected to the +5V line. Step 9: Close the Brick. Screw on the switch a little nut so to define how much the switch should hang out. Before locking the switch insert the PCB sliding it into the slots of the vertical plastic supports (the two remaining ones), pay attention to not push too hardy any inside component. Switch is now ready to be fastened with another small nut. Tight it hardy so it will be well locked. Close the brick and check the working of the switch. If everything works well (the light becomes green when switch is upper position), you can fasten the four back screws and put on the four rubber feet, since everything inside the box is done. Step 10: Crack the Plug. It’s time to modify the plug to transform it into two standard power connectors. Plug is hard to open, so it will probably breaks, but you don’t need it anymore, so don’t feel sad ,-) You can either cut the wire before the stabilizer cylinder, or leave it in place and try to remove the rubber reinforce, as I did. You’ll reveal four colored wires, which obviously correspond to the inner wires and lines we’ve seen in previous pictures. Step 11: . solder the Cables.

One more brick hack

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